If you’ve ever been to Italy, chances are you would have partaken in an evening passeggiata, strolling leisurely as you peek in restaurant windows and peruse their menu. Then you find a restaurant to your liking, go inside and marvel at the welcoming vibe and lived-in look which gives the impression that the venue has stood the test of time.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina
This is what it’s like to step inside Pino’s Vino e Cucina. But this is not Italy and you’re not likely to be strolling along the streets of Alexandria in Sydney looking for dining options. Once you’re inside, these memories will come back.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina in Alexandria opened just over one month ago, a new venture by owners Diane McDonald and Chef Matteo Margiotta with head chef Matteo Boschiero Preto bringing modern Italian cuisine to Sydney.
Table for 10
The dark timber fitout and warm lighting gives a comfortable vibe. The timber is mostly rescued from demolished homes including an old church that now make up the floor. There’s seating along very comfortable leather banquettes, a semi private table for 10 and tall stools facing a large window.
The Bar
But the centrepiece at Pino’s is an enviable all-timber bar with an impressive selection of spirits and modifiers on the back bar.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina: The Bar
Bar Manager Antonello Arzedi (formerly of Vasco Bar) has done a stellar job with ten cocktails that befit the modern Italian theme of the venue. Don’t call them classics with a twist. They’re far more deserving than a tired cliché.
Bar Manager Antonello Arzedi
There’s Hugo ($16), made with Fiorente Italian Elderflower Liqueur, fennel syrup topped with Prosecco. Maria al Mare ($18/$25) is a take on the Bloody Mary with Gin Mare, tomato juice, Mediterranean spices, seawater syrup and herbs with an optional serve of two Sydney rock oysters. Campari Shakerato is made with rhubarb jam and orange blossom spray while the Reverse Sake ($18) is a frozen cocktail combining sake with yuzu and matcha.
When it comes to well-loved classics, Pino’s put their own spin on the drinks. The Negroni is served from a siphon which adds a little effervescence become it settles into a regular Negroni. The Whisky Sour has house-made butter with lemon and charcoal, and a reduction of maraschino syrup instead of the usual garnish. The Old Fashioned has a specially crafted bitters while the vodka for the Espresso Martini is infused with cascara, the dried skins of coffee cherries.
Clever drinking vessels, elegant presentation and clear hand-chipped ice don’t go unnoticed.
The ethos is not to waste any food residuals. Fruit skins used in dessert or juice are dehydrated and used as garnish, and pineapple rind is infused with vermouth.
Sangria Bianca
The Sangria Bianca ($17) uses tropical sherry, roasted pineapple, apple, the excellent Oscar 697 Vermouth and muddled white peach. It’s shaken, served in a mini carafe and garnished with mint and ice cube sprinkled with strawberry dust. This modern sangria does the vermouth justice and it’s a light and refreshing aperitif in the summer heat.
Cynara
Cynara ($17) is served julep style with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Cynar, orange, pimento and garnished with tarragon. The bourbon and Cynar work in harmony while the citrus and herb lift the drink. The drink is expertly mixed by bartender Davide Colombo (who has worked with Salvatore Calabrese) using a swizzle, a tree branch with the top branches cut off. The swizzle is held between the palms of both hands and rotated by a gentle rubbing action back and forth.
Piñata
With a name like Piñata ($19), this drink is begging to be ordered. Ocho tequila, peach liqueur, bergamot syrup, a blend of Amaro Montenegro and Suze, and pink grapefruit come together in an elegant aperitif that you’d be tempted to order again. The tequila is ever so present but does not compete with the other flavours. Throw in a ceramic vessel, a metal straw and edible flowers, and this is a piñata you won’t forget.
Little Italy
If you’re into the spirit-forward cocktails, Little Italy ($19) is the one to finish with. The combination of Michter’s Rye whiskey, Cynar, vermouth blend and bitters lingers beautifully on the palate. The stirred drink is poured from a height for aeration into an elegant coupette and garnished with edible flowers and hand cut clear ice. Simply exquisite.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina: The Restaurant
Pino’s single page food menu changes monthly and is divided into Formaggi e Salumi (3 for $30, 5 for $45) or cheese and charcuterie, nine antipasti, six piatti forti (the main courses) including an 850g Bistecca Fiorentina for two, three side dishes and three dolci. The wine list is primarily Italian with a selection from Australia and France, many by the glass, bottle and half bottle.
Octopus
From the Primi Piatti, the Octopus ($19) comes with cannelini beans and nduja with a salsa verde. Tender to the bite and beautifully cooked, the flavour of the octopus is complemented by the heat from the nduja on the back palate.
Quail, witlof, grapes, vincotto
The Quail ($22) comes with witlof, grapes and vincotto, or cooked wine made from non-fermented grape must. The bird is tender and flavoursome with a harmony of sweetness, acidity and bitterness from the witlof – a flavour sensation to be repeated.
Tonnarelli, mussels, herb crumb
From the mains, the Tonnarelli (a thick spaghetti) with mussels, herb crumb in a light and fresh tomato sauce ($26) is the epitome of a simple, classic dish made well. The pasta is made in-house, the mussels are plump and flavoursome and all the elements come together in a tasty and uncomplicated dish that you’d happily order again.
Lamb Rump , pistachio, beetroot, caprino
Soft and succulent, the Lamb Rump ($33) comes with a dusting of pistachio that gives a subtle textural feel to the dish, caprino or goats curd for a hint of sourness counterbalanced by the sweetness of the baby beetroot.
Roasted Potato
Pair the lamb with crisp Roasted Potato ($10) with a hint of truffle that sneaks up on you after the first bite.
Torta di Mele
To finish, Torta di Mele ($14) is ever so light in texture complemented by the cinnamon and vanilla ice cream.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina
Pino’s Vino e Cucina brings relaxed dining with quality dishes and delicious flavours without the attitude. The friendly vibe flows from the team to the patrons, many of whom have already become repeat customers. The cocktail experience is one that you could easily have at one of Sydney’s best cocktail bars. In short, Pino’s Vino e Cucina is the local we all wish we had in our neighbourhood.
Pino’s Vino e Cucina
Address: 199 Lawrence St, Alexandria NSW 2015
Phone: (02) 9550 2789
Hours: Tue-Sat – 5pm-12pm, Sun: 5pm-10pm.
