Mode Kitchen & Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney brings fresh, contemporary dining in elegant and welcoming surrounds.
Mode Kitchen & Bar
The restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney has seen a few incarnations of late, The Woods by Hamish Ingham in 2012 followed by Pei Modern by Mark Best in 2014. Mode Kitchen & Bar is a departure from the celebrity chef trend with the appointment of Head Chef Francesco Mannelli previously of Balla, est. and Uccello – a change that is a reflection of what hotel guests and Sydneysiders are looking for in a contemporary dining experience.
From the lobby, the restaurant appears to be encased in glass, separating the hotel vibe from the intimate dining ambience.
The interior was designed by Lucchetti Krelle, who have also designed Pei Modern but Mode Kitchen & Bar brings a totally different and welcome vibe far removed from the sombre black.
Wood Fire Oven
The wood fired oven has been retained but the new art deco features echo the glamour of the 1920s with velvet, polished brass, marble and leather finishes.
An open kitchen faces the central bar, a welcome change from previous the space allocated to the imbibing of pre-dinner drinks.
Private Dining Area
The venue has a capacity of 200 guests but you never lose the intimacy that the new design brings.
Seating includes stools at the new and striking marble central bar, a chef’s table, elegant banquettes, lounge seating and two private dining spaces.
The cocktail menu at Mode Kitchen & Bar is far removed from that of neighbouring Grain Bar. The emphasis is on classic cocktails and as Restaurant Manager, Simone Cordedda puts it, “classics with a twist of modernity”.
Start with the Mode G&T ($15), a mix of Archie Rose Dry Gin and StrangeLove Dirty Tonic which gives the drink a light effervescence and a savoury note from the sea salt and rosemary.
Verde Bloody Mary
The Verde Bloody Mary ($20) is a pure, green delight. Archie Rose Vodka is infused with chilli and mixed with umami Japanese vinegar, housemade horseradish cream, housemade truffle oil, green tomatoes then blended together. Creamy in texture, the flavour is exquisite, bright, fresh and green with a good measure of heat that doesn’t overpower the palate before a meal.
Simone Cordedda Preparing Boulevardier
For a classic pre-dinner drink, the Boulevardier ($20) with Bulleit Rye, Campari and Antica Formula hits the spot. Barrel aged for four weeks in ex-sherry cask, the drink has a spice notes from the time spent in cask which gives the spirit-forward cocktail a delicious end note.
Velvet Smoking Jacket
The Velvet Smoking Jacket ($20) is exactly what you need for an after dinner cocktail. Smoky Laphroaig 10 YO is mixed with a red wine and port reduction, grilled lemon juice which brings a char flavour, vanilla sugar and soda topped with caramelised dehydrated orange garnish. You get the smokiness of the whisky at first, followed by the richness of the wine reduction, a creamy texture like the name promises with a hint of charred citrus at the back palate. Simply exquisite.
Salt & Pepper School Prawns
If you’re feeling peckish at the bar, there is a separate bar menu and the Salt & Pepper School Prawns ($10) go down like a treat.
The food focus by Head Chef Francesco Mannelli at Mode Kitchen & Bar is on flavoursome and uncomplicated dishes that reflect the locally sourced produce while taking inspiration from the Mediterranean.
Grilled Calamari Salad
From the entrées comes the Grilled Calamari Salad, Brussels Sprouts, Lemon & Chilli ($24), lightly charred and ever so tender with supple Brussels sprouts that make you fall in love with the divisive vegetable. A creamy puree of broccoli and sprouts binds the dish while a touch of chilli spice lifts the flavours.
Grass-Fed Black Angus Tartare
The classic tartare gets a Japanese influence via Italy. The Grass-Fed Black Angus Tartare, Shallot & Seaweed ($24) is crowned with shallots and seaweed, dotted with yuzu mayo and colatura, an Italian fish sauce made from anchovies. It’s fresh and flavoursome with a lovely umami note.
From the wood fired oven comes the Fremantle Octopus, Potatoes, Leeks & Radishes ($36), a dish that seduces the senses with its smoky aromas. Taking inspiration from Galicia in Spain, the tender octopus is flavoured with paprika oil and rests on a bed of potato and leek purée. Exquisite aromas and flavours are the highlight of this dish. A dusting of paprika on the plate ensures the smoky aromas remain till the last bite.
Slow-Cooked Lamb Shoulder
A more substantially-sized main course is the Slow-Cooked Lamb Shoulder, Japanese Eggplant & Saltbush ($37). Flinders Island lamb is slow-cooked overnight until it’s ever so tender then finished on the stove top. The accompanying eggplant is inspired by Chinese flavours with a moreish glaze of soy and balsamic vinegar.
From the sides, the Roasted Beetroot, Goat’s Curd & Toasted Almond ($10) is good enough to be enjoyed an entrée.
If you feel like something sweet to finish the night, the Mille-Feuille, Wild Berries & Chantilly ($15) hits the sweet spot with a flaky pastry that melts in the mouth and a light creme Chantilly.
Mode Kitchen & Bar is located on the ground floor of Four Seasons Hotel Sydney, near Sydney’s Circular Quay and is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
Mode Kitchen & Bar
Four Seasons Hotel, Ground Floor,
199 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9250 3160
This article is posted on Gourmantic.com - All rights reserved - Copyright © 2017.