On the A50 autoroute to Marseille, I am filled with mixed anticipation. I have been told that France’s third largest city is hostile and unwelcoming with a high crime rate and undesirables. But for me, Marseille has echoes of Mireille Matthieu’s songs, Marcel Pagnol’s trilogy Marius, Fanny, César, the old charm of  the Vieux Port, [...]