Standing on a private rooftop in the Kasbah of Mazara del Vallo, cracking pistachios and sipping Moretti beer, I feel as if I am in a movie set. Around me, a conglomeration of clay roofs, crumbling walls, church spires and minarets stud the fading sky in the late afternoon. Fishing boats and trailers bob along [...]

I openly declare that I was a back seat driver. I was also a pedestrian, a keen observer, a commentator, photographer and note-scribbler. The idea of taking up the wheel behind a hire car in Sicily filled me with fear. Fortunately, our travel plans altered the last minute and we were no longer required us [...]