A bouquet of ceramic lemons hangs on a wall in the Kasbah of the Sicilian town of Mazara del Vallo. Curious, I turn the corner and spot a woman in a white coat standing in front of a shop. In the distance, I mistake her for a chef or a cook on a short break [...]

The tray of dolci siciliani is set seductively on the dinner table. Wearing nothing but a thin sheet of paper, it teases the eye with a hint of roundness that lays beneath. “Take a photo of the name of the Pasticceria,” someone yells out from around the dinner table. I smile, pleased that my relatives [...]

The pleasant drive through the town of Marsala is threatened by ominous cloud. I spot the street sign with the name of the town and I suddenly feel thirsty. This is wine country, and many a bottle of Marsala has been enjoyed in fine company. The coastline comes into view and a religious statue framed [...]

During our trip to Sicily, a last minute change of plans had us spending 24 hours in Palermo. There was little time to look for accommodation and we needed a hotel that was relatively inexpensive but comfortable. Since we were arriving by bus from Mazara del Vallo and there was a stop near Teatro Politeama, [...]

Standing on a private rooftop in the Kasbah of Mazara del Vallo, cracking pistachios and sipping Moretti beer, I feel as if I am in a movie set. Around me, a conglomeration of clay roofs, crumbling walls, church spires and minarets stud the fading sky in the late afternoon. Fishing boats and trailers bob along [...]

I openly declare that I was a back seat driver. I was also a pedestrian, a keen observer, a commentator, photographer and note-scribbler. The idea of taking up the wheel behind a hire car in Sicily filled me with fear. Fortunately, our travel plans altered the last minute and we were no longer required us [...]